Ireland's Welcome to the Stranger

Asenath Nicholson

Or, AN EXCURSION THROUGH IRELAND, in 1844 & 1845, for the purpose of personally investigating the condition of the poor



Departure from New YorkThe Author's ParentageFellow PassengersDeath on BoardA good CaptainDeath of a DrunkardArrival at LiverpoolVoyage to Dublin and Arrival at KingstownA Chapter of AccidentsDifficulty of obtaining LodgingsA Morning WalkVisit to a Roman Catholic ClergymanThe Linen HallThe North Union Poor HouseLetters of IntroductionA Strange ReceptionAsylum for Unmarried Ladies


Dialogues with the PoorAn English ProphecyClontarf CastlePlan for the Relief of the DestituteA Dying SaintJourney to TullamoreFamily AfflictionVisits to the PoorThe JailThe PoorhouseIrish BeggarsA Scene on leaving TullamoreReturn to DublinExtraordinary Spectacle on the RoadConnaught LaborersThe Two ConvictsA Man's Merit cannot be judged by his CoatAnother Visit to the DyingA Military Congregation


Visit to the County of WicklowA Tremendous Coach-loadHorrors of the JourneySafe Arrival and kind ReceptionA Happy FamilyShelton AbbeyArklowBeautiful SceneryArklow FishermenDomestic TurmoilRathdrumVale of AvocaWicklow Gold MinesA Hungry ManAn Old War HorseA Scriptural AnswerVisit to a Rectory


The Church of KilbrideA Methodist MinisterMethodism in IrelandVisit to the RectoryTetotalism unfashionableAmerican Courtesy to Females not universal in IrelandThe Seven Churches of GlendaloughFoolish Legends connected with this localityStrange Exhibition of Party SpiritReturn to DublinLady Harburton's School


The Second Cabin of a Canal-BoatMuch ado about SixpenceA Blind FiddlerA Jaunting Car JauntArrival at KilkennyCordial HospitalityKilkenny BeggarsJourney to UrlingfordA Rural PhysicianRide in a Turf KishThe Poor Widow's WelcomeA Country DanceDeparture of an EmigrantLamentations thereuponKind Reception in an intelligent Roman Catholic FamilyAn Irish WakeA FactionFair at UrlingfordCostume of the PeasantryVisit to a National School


Cabin LifeUrlingford SpaRebuff from a ClergymanNew Birmingham CollieryVillage of GrangeThe PoliceA Good MethodistMr. Barker of KilcooleyYankee DoodleResidence in the NeighborhoodVisit to ThurlesAncient Abbey of Holy CrossJourney to Clonmel, Dungarvan, and CappoquinVisit to the Trappist Monastery of Mount Mellary


The spirit of Caste injurious in IrelandJourney to YoughalThe Blessed Well of St. DaganCabin HospitalityUncourteous Reception by Sir Richard MusgraveRebuff from a "great, good man"Rejoicings at Lismore for O'Connell's LiberationA DisasterBrutality of an Inn-keeper's SonDungarvanTwo silent QuakeressesThoughts on Irish HospitalityUnsuccessful Application to BianconiStrong National Peculiarities of the IrishUnpopularity of StepmothersSt. Patrick's WellA Poor Old WomanA Baptist MinisterHappy Molly


Nunnery at ThurlesMonks' SchoolDialogues on the RoadGrateful ReflectionsNocturnal AlarmAffecting IncidentA Gay ConsumptiveParting from True FriendsA Jolly CompanyLamentation on LyingWalk to RoscreaA Weariful WomanA CentennarianCharity SermonA Christian SisterA Poor HouseVisit to a Great BrewerA FuneralFather MathewRemarkable Vivacity of the IrishSelf DenialShort CommonsA Snug Protestant Farmer's HouseholdCool Reception


BirrA Miserable Protestant Lodging-houseRich Distiller's Family ruined by IntemperanceA Wealthy EccentricLord Rosse's Telescope, and Lord RosseA Baptist MinisterCourtesy of the Children of the Irish PeasantryAnother Unfortunate Letter of IntroductionWalk from Ballinasloe to LoughreaMiserable Condition of the PoorA returned EmigrantFellow TravellersAn Interesting TrioReading the BibleA Scripture DiscussionA Connaught Catholic's Experience of Church-goingMarket-day in LoughreaA Shebeen HouseA Pig's HonestyRemorseless StaringMore Bible ReadingScarcity of Female Beauty in GalwayStaring in Galway beyond DescriptionAncient Burial-groundVisit to a Presbyterian Minister who had just married a Rich WifeLaborers standing in the Market-placeMiserable LodgingsWalk to OranmoreThe name of "American Stranger" a Key to the People's HeartsA Connemara Girl


Walk to LoughreaThoughts of HomeA New DayA Fellow TravellerCabin TheologySuch a Bed!Hearty Welcome in BanagherAn Anxious MotherA Noble-hearted DaughterIncursion of a Troop of Connaughtmen into an Inn, and how they behaved themselvesVisit to Mr. S.RejectionChristian kindness of Poor Mary and her Brother


Novel Interior of a CabinNo Lodging PlaceDreary walk through mud and rain to RoscreaA profitable SixpenceStart joyfully, with fine weather, and threepence in my purseA Lift from a "Friend"Money-letter at UrlingfordReflectionsHonesty and kindness of the poor Irish PeasantryParting from cordial friendsGarrulous fellow-travellerPerilous positionReturn to Dublin, and kind receptionPuzzling Voyage of Discovery


Start for another TourHow to carry a heavy Load with little TroubleA formidable Animal in the CaravanVisit to a Poor Cabin, Half-a-crown earned in Three MonthsAttentive AuditoryWretched condition of a Sick WomanThe bright Old Man of the MountainSabbath Hymn, and the Company collected therebyThe Scholar with his IliadVisit to Wicklow LighthousesWexfordInfant SchoolA tolerant Catholic


Public Buildings in WexfordUnexpected DelayAmerican FamilyA Rare LadyAppreciation of TeachersDoctors differDelightful FamilyOver-lading of VehiclesWaterfordClonmelCar Travelling and Companions on the RoadLodgings in Cork


Reception from Father MathewThe Aged NunTemperance Tea PartyDanger of becoming a Public CharacterOne Source of the Reverence paid to the PriestUrsuline Convent and its EleganciesSail to CoveBeautiful BaySearch for Dr. PowerThe Begging WhineTrip to BlarneyRacy Old Priest"The Blackguard Salt Herring"Wonders of BlarneyDr. Barter's Hydropathic EstablishmentOur Jolly Priest is no TetotallerWalk to CovePleasant Little MaidensDelightful time passed in Dr. Power's Family


CloyneDifference between Upstarts and the really WellbredPractical Proofs of the sameWonderful Natural CavesCity Jail of CorkHumane GovernorPrison DisciplineTaking leave of a good manCharacter of Father MathewNo Monopoly in OrthodoxyA Night in BandonA Peasant Family employed, a rare sight in IrelandArrival at the miserable town of Bantry


Exploration in BantryPoverty, Wretchedness, and Filth of the DwellingsGrand Poorhouse standing unoccupiedWigwam RowMy attendant, JohnEmployment a NoveltyBeautiful Bay of BantryGlengariffBad choice of a Lodging-houseA Motley AudienceNo Refuge from the StaringMorning LeveeLord Bantry's CottageHospitality at the GatehouseCall at my ill-chosen Lodgings


Rambles in GlengariffHousehold ManureKind Little GuideA Gallant OfferSplendid Interior of the Slated HouseA Rare and Lofty LarderPerilous TransitWild NativesDwelling of the Three SistersSpiritual Fallow GroundMan sometimes behind the Lower AnimalsThe Author delivers a Short SermonGood-bye to Glengariff and the Hospitable Family of the GatekeeperLakes and MountainsPublican versus PriestRide among Turf BasketsEarly Matrimony


Accident at KenmareArrival at KillarneyDread of Heretical BooksTurk WaterfallFuneral WailAmerica's good fameLions of the Lake"Sweet Innisfallen"White-robed ProcessionA Third FuneralDry BonesBattle of the GhostsPair of SlippersTest of OrthodoxyStaring! Staring!Another Hospitable Gate-houseLord Kenmare's ParkCalm Sabbath MornThe Little Petitioner for the "Word of God"A Door of Access


Fellow Travellers on the Kerry MountainsBay of Ross by Moonlight"Fine Stage-house"Loss of AppetiteFeet-bathing ExtraordinaryKerry TrickGlorious Morning on the Mountains, in spite of Hunger and WearinessCabin CourtesyWomen a Beast of BurdenLodging-house at CahirciveenA Saucepan an Unattainable LuxuryReligion and FilthGuests to the FairCurly-headed BiddyBattle of the SticksSabbath ServicesProtestant Whiskey-SellingImproved Quarters


An Americanized IrishmanArmed DefenceModern MermaidsIsland of ValentiaEmployment and a good LandlordConversible Coast GuardA Child's Mute AppealPoverty and Low RentsRidiculous Old CustomDerrynaneO'Connell's LibraryCold ComfortHospitable Port in a StormLighthearted BurdenbearersKerry Dancing and Kerry Kindness


Rough RoadA Kind Offer declinedThe Funeral LamentMaurice Raheley's Lodging HousePerfumed BedchamberSunrise on the Kerry MountainsNovel DuetMountain Air or City Smoke?Irish RoadsA Tetotaler in Bad CompanyAwful NightSabbath of Rest at KillarneyGap of DunloeGuide Persecution"Crazy Woman"Where to spend the nightBright Wood FireRecollections of ChildhoodDinis IslandDebt of Gratitude


TraleePublic-house honestyA "Gentleman"Mr. Walpole's Honorable DealingsChristianity at Dingle"They always Stand"One Bright SpotThe ConvertsEducation of the Lower OrderNancy Brown's ParlorCoquetry and GallantryPeasant Girl's PoetryLearned PriestSybil HeadLook! Look!Fearless ChildrenDisappointment and VexationCandid Hotel-keeperBanks of the Shannon


Sail up the Shannon to LimerickPoorhouse StiraboutSleepless Night at EnnisTown without BreadGrievous IgnoranceTrue Delivery of my one-armed CharioteerBasket of BonesMy Carpet-bag ransackedLearned SchoolmasterExchange of ComplimentsRed PetticoatsOld Pedlar and his daughterTemple of NatureThe back of the BarracksMarble QuarryCompletely WatersoakedConnemara HospitalityBundles of StrawSabbath in the Mountain Cabin


ClifdenClifden CastleIrish HolidaysWalk to RoundstoneHardships of Irish TenantsThree Guides pointing three different waysPotatoes a Curse upon IrelandA Rough and Weary roadAbsence of TreesAn aged PilgrimGood WishesA Timely SupplyJudicious AdviceA Kind CurateA Connemara SchoolAscent of the Diamond Mountain, and Adventure by the WayTullyNo Bread to be had in the TownThe Isle of Oma, and the Natives thereofChange for the better in ConnemaraReturn to Clifden


Misfortune in ClifdenReverse of FortuneAn Aged PilgrimEager ListenersVisit to a Dying ManGlorious SunsetAn officious PolicemanLady ClareArrival in GalwayObtrusiveness of the WomenA Sermon on BaptismJourney to WestportIntroduction to Mr. PoundonA devoted Presbyterian MinisterSketch of a Christian Missionary, such as Ireland needsCroagh PatrickHazardous Ascent to the MountainGrand Prospect from the SummitReturn to WestportDoubts RemovedFilial AffectionA Poor Protestant


Sunday SermonsNewportA Relic of Better DaysArrival at Achill Sound, and Kind Reception from Mr. Savage and his FamilyVisit to the ColonyMr. Nangle's Protestant Missionary SettlementMolly Vesey's LodgingsVisit to the Schools at the ColonyWalk to the Keem MountainsA CentenarianThe Amethyst QuarriesThe Author's Acknowledgments and Censures ExplainedMr. Nangle's Weekday LectureInterview with Mr. and Mrs. NangleDoctrinal Conversion is not all that is due to the Convert from PoperyA Reformed Roman Catholic PriestRenewed Hospitality at the SoundAnother Short Visit to the ColonyReturn to NewportIntemperance not Banished from the County of MayoWestportCastlebarSligoA Beautiful GemHospitality in DeathPicturesque Scenery of the County of SligoReturn to DublinThe Mendicity Association


Mr. Nangle's Notice in the Achill Herald, of the Author's Visit to the SettlementRemarks upon this Document and the motives which probably dictated itConcluding Observations relative to the objects of the Writer's Tour in Ireland, and the Reception she met with from various Classes of the Community


Ireland’s Welome to the Stranger is one of the best accounts of Irish social conditions, customs, quirks and habits that you could wish for. The author, Mrs Asenath Nicholson, was an American widow who travelled extensively in Ireland on the eve of the Great Famine and meticulously observed the Irish peasantry at work and play, as well as noting their living conditions and diet. The book is also available from Kindle.