Ireland's Welcome to the Stranger
Or, AN EXCURSION THROUGH IRELAND, in 1844 & 1845, for the purpose of personally investigating the condition of the poor
CHAPTER I.
Departure from New York—The Author's Parentage—Fellow Passengers—Death on Board—A good Captain—Death of a Drunkard—Arrival at Liverpool—Voyage to Dublin and Arrival at Kingstown—A Chapter of Accidents—Difficulty of obtaining Lodgings—A Morning Walk—Visit to a Roman Catholic Clergyman—The Linen Hall—The North Union Poor House—Letters of Introduction—A Strange Reception—Asylum for Unmarried Ladies
CHAPTER II.
Dialogues with the Poor—An English Prophecy—Clontarf Castle—Plan for the Relief of the Destitute—A Dying Saint—Journey to Tullamore—Family Affliction—Visits to the Poor—The Jail—The Poorhouse—Irish Beggars—A Scene on leaving Tullamore—Return to Dublin—Extraordinary Spectacle on the Road—Connaught Laborers—The Two Convicts—A Man's Merit cannot be judged by his Coat—Another Visit to the Dying—A Military Congregation
CHAPTER III.
Visit to the County of Wicklow—A Tremendous Coach-load—Horrors of the Journey—Safe Arrival and kind Reception—A Happy Family—Shelton Abbey—Arklow—Beautiful Scenery—Arklow Fishermen—Domestic Turmoil—Rathdrum—Vale of Avoca—Wicklow Gold Mines—A Hungry Man—An Old War Horse—A Scriptural Answer—Visit to a Rectory
CHAPTER IV.
The Church of Kilbride—A Methodist Minister—Methodism in Ireland—Visit to the Rectory—Tetotalism unfashionable—American Courtesy to Females not universal in Ireland—The Seven Churches of Glendalough—Foolish Legends connected with this locality—Strange Exhibition of Party Spirit—Return to Dublin—Lady Harburton's School
CHAPTER V.
The Second Cabin of a Canal-Boat—Much ado about Sixpence—A Blind Fiddler—A Jaunting Car Jaunt—Arrival at Kilkenny—Cordial Hospitality—Kilkenny Beggars—Journey to Urlingford—A Rural Physician—Ride in a Turf Kish—The Poor Widow's Welcome—A Country Dance—Departure of an Emigrant—Lamentations thereupon—Kind Reception in an intelligent Roman Catholic Family—An Irish Wake—A Faction—Fair at Urlingford—Costume of the Peasantry—Visit to a National School
CHAPTER VI.
Cabin Life—Urlingford Spa—Rebuff from a Clergyman—New Birmingham Colliery—Village of Grange—The Police—A Good Methodist—Mr. Barker of Kilcooley—Yankee Doodle—Residence in the Neighborhood—Visit to Thurles—Ancient Abbey of Holy Cross—Journey to Clonmel, Dungarvan, and Cappoquin—Visit to the Trappist Monastery of Mount Mellary
CHAPTER VII.
The spirit of Caste injurious in Ireland—Journey to Youghal—The Blessed Well of St. Dagan—Cabin Hospitality—Uncourteous Reception by Sir Richard Musgrave—Rebuff from a "great, good man"—Rejoicings at Lismore for O'Connell's Liberation—A Disaster—Brutality of an Inn-keeper's Son—Dungarvan—Two silent Quakeresses—Thoughts on Irish Hospitality—Unsuccessful Application to Bianconi—Strong National Peculiarities of the Irish—Unpopularity of Stepmothers—St. Patrick's Well—A Poor Old Woman—A Baptist Minister—Happy Molly
CHAPTER VIII.
Nunnery at Thurles—Monks' School—Dialogues on the Road—Grateful Reflections—Nocturnal Alarm—Affecting Incident—A Gay Consumptive—Parting from True Friends—A Jolly Company—Lamentation on Lying—Walk to Roscrea—A Weariful Woman—A Centennarian—Charity Sermon—A Christian Sister—A Poor House—Visit to a Great Brewer—A Funeral—Father Mathew—Remarkable Vivacity of the Irish—Self Denial—Short Commons—A Snug Protestant Farmer's Household—Cool Reception
CHAPTER IX.
Birr—A Miserable Protestant Lodging-house— Rich Distiller's Family ruined by Intemperance—A Wealthy Eccentric—Lord Rosse's Telescope, and Lord Rosse—A Baptist Minister—Courtesy of the Children of the Irish Peasantry—Another Unfortunate Letter of Introduction—Walk from Ballinasloe to Loughrea—Miserable Condition of the Poor—A returned Emigrant—Fellow Travellers—An Interesting Trio—Reading the Bible—A Scripture Discussion—A Connaught Catholic's Experience of Church-going—Market-day in Loughrea—A Shebeen House—A Pig's Honesty—Remorseless Staring—More Bible Reading—Scarcity of Female Beauty in Galway—Staring in Galway beyond Description—Ancient Burial-ground—Visit to a Presbyterian Minister who had just married a Rich Wife—Laborers standing in the Market-place—Miserable Lodgings—Walk to Oranmore—The name of "American Stranger" a Key to the People's Hearts—A Connemara Girl
CHAPTER X.
Walk to Loughrea—Thoughts of Home—A New Day—A Fellow Traveller—Cabin Theology—Such a Bed!—Hearty Welcome in Banagher—An Anxious Mother—A Noble-hearted Daughter—Incursion of a Troop of Connaughtmen into an Inn, and how they behaved themselves—Visit to Mr. S.—Rejection—Christian kindness of Poor Mary and her Brother
CHAPTER XI.
Novel Interior of a Cabin—No Lodging Place—Dreary walk through mud and rain to Roscrea—A profitable Sixpence—Start joyfully, with fine weather, and threepence in my purse—A Lift from a "Friend"—Money-letter at Urlingford—Reflections—Honesty and kindness of the poor Irish Peasantry—Parting from cordial friends—Garrulous fellow-traveller—Perilous position—Return to Dublin, and kind reception—Puzzling Voyage of Discovery
CHAPTER XII.
Start for another Tour—How to carry a heavy Load with little Trouble— A formidable Animal in the Caravan—Visit to a Poor Cabin, Half-a-crown earned in Three Months—Attentive Auditory—Wretched condition of a Sick Woman—The bright Old Man of the Mountain—Sabbath Hymn, and the Company collected thereby—The Scholar with his Iliad—Visit to Wicklow Lighthouses—Wexford—Infant School—A tolerant Catholic
CHAPTER XIII.
Public Buildings in Wexford—Unexpected Delay—American Family—A Rare Lady—Appreciation of Teachers—Doctors differ—Delightful Family—Over-lading of Vehicles—Waterford—Clonmel—Car Travelling and Companions on the Road—Lodgings in Cork
CHAPTER XIV.
Reception from Father Mathew—The Aged Nun—Temperance Tea Party—Danger of becoming a Public Character—One Source of the Reverence paid to the Priest—Ursuline Convent and its Elegancies—Sail to Cove—Beautiful Bay—Search for Dr. Power—The Begging Whine—Trip to Blarney—Racy Old Priest—"The Blackguard Salt Herring"—Wonders of Blarney—Dr. Barter's Hydropathic Establishment—Our Jolly Priest is no Tetotaller—Walk to Cove—Pleasant Little Maidens—Delightful time passed in Dr. Power's Family
CHAPTER XV.
Cloyne—Difference between Upstarts and the really Wellbred—Practical Proofs of the same—Wonderful Natural Caves—City Jail of Cork—Humane Governor—Prison Discipline—Taking leave of a good man—Character of Father Mathew—No Monopoly in Orthodoxy—A Night in Bandon—A Peasant Family employed, a rare sight in Ireland—Arrival at the miserable town of Bantry
CHAPTER XVI.
Exploration in Bantry—Poverty, Wretchedness, and Filth of the Dwellings—Grand Poorhouse standing unoccupied—Wigwam Row—My attendant, John—Employment a Novelty—Beautiful Bay of Bantry—Glengariff—Bad choice of a Lodging-house—A Motley Audience—No Refuge from the Staring—Morning Levee—Lord Bantry's Cottage—Hospitality at the Gatehouse—Call at my ill-chosen Lodgings
CHAPTER XVII.
Rambles in Glengariff—Household Manure—Kind Little Guide—A Gallant Offer—Splendid Interior of the Slated House—A Rare and Lofty Larder—Perilous Transit—Wild Natives—Dwelling of the Three Sisters—Spiritual Fallow Ground—Man sometimes behind the Lower Animals—The Author delivers a Short Sermon—Good-bye to Glengariff and the Hospitable Family of the Gatekeeper—Lakes and Mountains—Publican versus Priest—Ride among Turf Baskets—Early Matrimony
CHAPTER XVIII.
Accident at Kenmare—Arrival at Killarney—Dread of Heretical Books—Turk Waterfall—Funeral Wail—America's good fame—Lions of the Lake—"Sweet Innisfallen"—White-robed Procession—A Third Funeral—Dry Bones—Battle of the Ghosts—Pair of Slippers—Test of Orthodoxy—Staring! Staring!—Another Hospitable Gate-house—Lord Kenmare's Park—Calm Sabbath Morn—The Little Petitioner for the "Word of God"—A Door of Access
CHAPTER XIX.
Fellow Travellers on the Kerry Mountains—Bay of Ross by Moonlight—"Fine Stage-house"—Loss of Appetite—Feet-bathing Extraordinary—Kerry Trick—Glorious Morning on the Mountains, in spite of Hunger and Weariness—Cabin Courtesy—Women a Beast of Burden—Lodging-house at Cahirciveen—A Saucepan an Unattainable Luxury—Religion and Filth—Guests to the Fair—Curly-headed Biddy—Battle of the Sticks—Sabbath Services—Protestant Whiskey-Selling—Improved Quarters
CHAPTER XX.
An Americanized Irishman—Armed Defence—Modern Mermaids—Island of Valentia—Employment and a good Landlord—Conversible Coast Guard—A Child's Mute Appeal—Poverty and Low Rents—Ridiculous Old Custom—Derrynane—O'Connell's Library—Cold Comfort—Hospitable Port in a Storm—Lighthearted Burdenbearers—Kerry Dancing and Kerry Kindness
CHAPTER XXI.
Rough Road—A Kind Offer declined—The Funeral Lament—Maurice Raheley's Lodging House—Perfumed Bedchamber—Sunrise on the Kerry Mountains—Novel Duet—Mountain Air or City Smoke?—Irish Roads—A Tetotaler in Bad Company—Awful Night—Sabbath of Rest at Killarney—Gap of Dunloe—Guide Persecution—"Crazy Woman"—Where to spend the night—Bright Wood Fire—Recollections of Childhood—Dinis Island—Debt of Gratitude
CHAPTER XXII.
Tralee—Public-house honesty—A "Gentleman"—Mr. Walpole's Honorable Dealings—Christianity at Dingle—"They always Stand"—One Bright Spot—The Converts—Education of the Lower Order—Nancy Brown's Parlor—Coquetry and Gallantry—Peasant Girl's Poetry—Learned Priest—Sybil Head—Look! Look!—Fearless Children—Disappointment and Vexation—Candid Hotel-keeper—Banks of the Shannon
CHAPTER XXIII.
Sail up the Shannon to Limerick—Poorhouse Stirabout—Sleepless Night at Ennis—Town without Bread—Grievous Ignorance—True Delivery of my one-armed Charioteer—Basket of Bones—My Carpet-bag ransacked—Learned Schoolmaster—Exchange of Compliments—Red Petticoats—Old Pedlar and his daughter—Temple of Nature—The back of the Barracks—Marble Quarry—Completely Watersoaked—Connemara Hospitality—Bundles of Straw—Sabbath in the Mountain Cabin
CHAPTER XXIV.
Clifden—Clifden Castle—Irish Holidays—Walk to Roundstone—Hardships of Irish Tenants—Three Guides pointing three different ways—Potatoes a Curse upon Ireland—A Rough and Weary road—Absence of Trees—An aged Pilgrim—Good Wishes—A Timely Supply—Judicious Advice—A Kind Curate—A Connemara School—Ascent of the Diamond Mountain, and Adventure by the Way—Tully—No Bread to be had in the Town—The Isle of Oma, and the Natives thereof—Change for the better in Connemara—Return to Clifden
CHAPTER XXV.
Misfortune in Clifden—Reverse of Fortune—An Aged Pilgrim—Eager Listeners—Visit to a Dying Man—Glorious Sunset—An officious Policeman—Lady Clare—Arrival in Galway—Obtrusiveness of the Women—A Sermon on Baptism—Journey to Westport—Introduction to Mr. Poundon—A devoted Presbyterian Minister—Sketch of a Christian Missionary, such as Ireland needs—Croagh Patrick—Hazardous Ascent to the Mountain—Grand Prospect from the Summit—Return to Westport—Doubts Removed—Filial Affection—A Poor Protestant
CHAPTER XXVI.
Sunday Sermons—Newport—A Relic of Better Days—Arrival at Achill Sound, and Kind Reception from Mr. Savage and his Family—Visit to the Colony—Mr. Nangle's Protestant Missionary Settlement—Molly Vesey's Lodgings—Visit to the Schools at the Colony—Walk to the Keem Mountains—A Centenarian—The Amethyst Quarries—The Author's Acknowledgments and Censures Explained—Mr. Nangle's Weekday Lecture—Interview with Mr. and Mrs. Nangle—Doctrinal Conversion is not all that is due to the Convert from Popery—A Reformed Roman Catholic Priest—Renewed Hospitality at the Sound—Another Short Visit to the Colony—Return to Newport—Intemperance not Banished from the County of Mayo—Westport—Castlebar—Sligo—A Beautiful Gem—Hospitality in Death—Picturesque Scenery of the County of Sligo—Return to Dublin—The Mendicity Association
CHAPTER XXVII.
Mr. Nangle's Notice in the Achill Herald, of the Author's Visit to the Settlement—Remarks upon this Document and the motives which probably dictated it—Concluding Observations relative to the objects of the Writer's Tour in Ireland, and the Reception she met with from various Classes of the Community
Ireland’s Welome to the Stranger is one of the best accounts of Irish social conditions, customs, quirks and habits that you could wish for. The author, Mrs Asenath Nicholson, was an American widow who travelled extensively in Ireland on the eve of the Great Famine and meticulously observed the Irish peasantry at work and play, as well as noting their living conditions and diet. The book is also available from Kindle.